The slat is ready, the clamps are laid out and the glue bottle refuses to cooperate. Squeezing harder feels like the obvious answer, right up until a dried plug gives way and a puddle lands on the work. A quick nozzle check belongs in the dry run, not halfway through the joint.
For an ordinary PVA wood-glue bottle, start with a gentle test squeeze over a piece of scrap. Keep the opening pointed away from your face. If nothing comes out, stop and check whether the nozzle is open. Do not keep increasing the pressure or try to clear it with your mouth.
If the cap or nozzle is removable, follow the bottle maker’s cleaning guidance and work on it away from the open glue container. Lift off dried glue around the outside without pushing crumbs into the bottle. Do not drill the opening larger: a clean nozzle should control the bead, not flood the joint.
Keep cleaning water out of the glue itself, and let any washed nozzle dry before refitting it. Adding water to the bottle to solve a blockage changes the adhesive rather than fixing the obstruction; only thin a glue if its maker specifically permits it. Other adhesives need different cleanup methods, so do not carry this PVA routine over to instant glue or polyurethane glue.
Test again on scrap before returning to the repair. If the nozzle is clear but the glue remains unusually thick or lumpy, check the product’s storage and shelf-life guidance rather than trusting it on the box. Once the job is done, wipe the opening and close the cap as directed, before the next crust has a chance to form.
Practical takeaway: add one small glue-flow test to the dry fit. A clear nozzle, a gentle squeeze and a scrap catch pad keep the adhesive where it belongs—and let you concentrate on fitting the parts.
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