You drive a screw into a replacement crate slat, but a small gap stays underneath it. More pressure on the driver only dents the wood around the head. Before tightening again, back the screw out and check the fit. Threads gripping both pieces can hold them apart instead of drawing them together.
For an ordinary screw-fastened repair, the two holes have different jobs. A clearance hole through the outer slat lets the screw pass without its threads biting that piece. A smaller pilot hole in the supporting wood gives the threads something to grip. The screw head bears on the slat while the threads pull into the support.
Choose the clearance drill to suit the screw’s outside thread diameter, checking the fastener maker’s guidance where available. Test on a matching offcut: the threaded portion should pass through without being screwed in, while the head still has enough wood to bear on. Choose the pilot drill for the screw and the supporting wood; one bit is not automatically right for both holes.
Clamp and support the slat for drilling, and wear eye protection. Drill the clearance hole through that piece only, with scrap beneath it to limit breakout. Then clamp the parts in their final position and drill the pilot into the support, controlling depth so the bit cannot emerge where it is not wanted. Keep the hole away from damaged edges and existing splits.
Bring the joint together with the clamp before driving the screw. Stop when the head is seated, not buried. If a gap remains, check for debris, a bowed part or a screw bottoming out; a larger hole will not cure those problems. This is a small, non-structural repair technique, not a substitute for specified fasteners or an assessment of a load-bearing crate.
Practical takeaway: let the screw clear the outer piece and grip the supporting piece. Test both holes on scrap, dry-fit the joint and tighten gently. A stubborn gap calls for a look at the joint, not another burst from the driver.
Crate RepairsScrewsDrilling