The nail comes out, but the hammer leaves a crescent-shaped dent beside the hole. That is an easy trade to make when fixing a wooden crate in a hurry. Before pulling a small exposed nail, give the tool something other than the finished wood to bear against.
Empty the crate and check what the nail is holding. Support the piece on a stable bench and secure it so it cannot tip or slide as you pull. A thin slat spanning an open gap needs support close to the repair; a protective pad on top will not stop an unsupported board from bending. Wear eye protection and keep your free hand away from the nail and tool path.
Choose a clean, flat scrap wide enough to spread the pressure over sound wood. Check its underside for grit, dried glue and stray fasteners, then place it beneath the part of the hammer head that will bear on the surface. Keep the pad clear of a fragile edge. On a finished face, a clean, thin protective layer beneath the scrap can help, but it is not a guarantee against marks.
With the claw securely engaged beneath the nail head, apply slow, controlled pressure. Stop if the pad slips, the wood flexes or a crack begins to open. As the nail rises, reset the tool and pad rather than forcing one long pull. A deeply buried, bent or rusted nail may need a different removal method; digging a crater around it usually makes the repair bigger.
Set the removed nail straight into a rigid scrap-hardware container rather than leaving it on the bench or floor. Inspect the hole and surrounding wood before choosing a replacement fastener. Pulling a nail neatly does not establish that a cracked joint or a load-carrying crate is sound enough to use again.
Practical takeaway: keep one smooth scrap pad beside your hand tools. For the next small nail removal, support the work, protect the surface and pause at the first sign of movement in the wood. The aim is to remove the fastener without creating a second repair.
Crate RepairsHand ToolsWood Care