A latch can look straight on the front of a wooden box and still refuse to close. Its two halves need to meet with the lid resting in its normal position, not wherever the screw holes happen to put them. A short dry fit is worth doing before making those holes permanent.
Empty the box and set it on a steady surface. Close the lid gently and check that it sits properly on its own. If it rocks, rubs or needs a hard push, sort out the fit or hinge problem first. A latch is not a good way to drag a twisted lid into place.
Hold both latch parts against the closed box, following the hardware maker’s mounting arrangement. Engage and release them while a helper holds the parts steady, or use suitable temporary tape on a finish-safe test area. Tape is only a positioning aid here, not a secure fixing or a reason to lift the box by its lid.
Check the joint from the front and side. The latch body and its catch may need different offsets from the lid seam; centring the whole fitting by eye is not enough. Make sure the lever has room to move and fingers can reach it without scraping the wood. Mark the positions only when the mechanism works without forcing it.
Open and support the lid for drilling, secure the work and check screw length against the actual wood thickness. Use pilot holes suited to the screws and wood, and follow the hardware instructions. If the fitting has slotted adjustment holes, use them as intended before committing to the remaining holes. Seat small screws by hand rather than crushing the fitting into soft wood.
Practical takeaway: test the latch as a pair on a lid that already fits. After fastening, open and close it several times with the box still empty and on the bench. The lid should stay aligned and the screws should stay firm. A neat closure is not proof of carrying strength, a shipping rating or a child-safe lock.
Box HardwareSmall RepairsDry Fitting