Hand sanding should feel like steady progress, not a contest with the wood. If a crate rail still has the same scratch after several passes, the temptation is to lean harder. Before you do, lift the block and look at the paper. The abrasive may be clogged or worn rather than too fine for the job.
Inspect the working face in good light. Packed dust between the grains, shiny patches or hard lumps are reasons to stop and compare it with a fresh piece of the same grit. A clogged sheet may feel smoother without actually leaving a smoother surface. Torn backing and a folded edge are worth replacing too; either can make the block behave unevenly.
Secure the part and try a fresh piece on a small area with light, even strokes along the grain. Keep a flat block flat on broad faces rather than tipping onto a corner. If the new paper cuts more readily at the same pressure, retire the tired piece. Mark the grit on the back of cut sheets so a worn coarse piece is not mistaken for a finer one.
Clear loose dust from the work and block with suitable dust extraction, and use eye and respiratory protection appropriate to the material. Avoid blowing sanding dust around the shop. If paper loads up almost immediately over glue or a finish, stop and check that material’s sanding instructions and drying or cure requirements. More fresh sheets will not solve a coating that is not ready to sand.
Fresh abrasive is not a reason to chase every mark until the wood changes shape. On a thin slat, repeated heavy sanding can hollow the face or round an edge that needs to meet another part. Pause to check the surface in side light. For a deep defect, consider a different repair or replacement instead of removing sound wood around it.
Practical takeaway: keep a few fresh sheets beside the sanding block and compare like with like before changing grit or adding pressure. When progress slows, check the paper, clear the dust and inspect the work. Stop when the surface is ready—not when your arm is tired.
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